Overlooking Fes from Borj Sud observatory
A lot of people had warned me against Fes, despite it being one of the city I was looking forward to the most in Morocco. Sure, once I was there, a handful of people tried to grab my bag, and not once was I comfortable withdrawing money at the ATM by myself. I definitely understood the point of these warnings.
But the thing is, I hated Casablanca so, so much, that anything after that was just pure bliss. And in all honesty, I kind of enjoyed Fes, despite the absolute chaos and the overwhelming presence of men around me. I would learn much later on in my trip that this is just how Morocco is – dominated by men, and restless.
But do not fret! There are a number of things to do in Fes that don’t involve holding on for dear life. Let’s see…
Things To Do in Fes
The Pottery Factories
Fes is often regarded as the pottery capital of Morocco, with reason – there are several factories scattered around the medina, each with its own specialty. Some sell fountains, others tilework, others only have pottery, and others, I suspect the touristy ones, have a little bit of everything.
Regardless, watching the artisans live at work is undoubtedly engrossing, when knowing that this knowledge has been passed from generation to generation for centuries. No two designs are ever the same because the artisans don’t work with templates – each piece is completely unique.
Naturally, Morocco being what it is, you can also buy pretty much anything that is remotely related to pottery in the gigantic stores on site. But don’t hesitate to haggle hard! The prices in the factories are a gazillion times more expensive than in the medina, so make sure you get the price you had in mind before you commit to buy anything.
Call To Prayer at Palais Jamaï
This is one of the most spiritual things I have ever done – and trust me when I say that I am NOT a spiritual or religious person.
Islam fascinates me in more ways than one, and the adhan – call to prayer – is perhaps what I admire the most about this religion. The sheer dedication, the non-negotiable “time-out” from real life, everyday at sunset, when the melody softly hums from seemingly everywhere around you until a loud Allahu Akbar blares from the nearest minaret.
The best place to fully enjoy this magical moment? The Palais Sofitel Jamaï, on the northern edge of the medina. The terrace overlooks the entire area of Fes El-Bali, and from there you can hear the tonitruous call to prayer coming in from every direction. Even though you can’t actually see the people below due to the very high building density, you can very well imagine the frantic anthill below, with people on their way to their mosque. Absolutely magical, and captivating.
Al-Attarine Madrasa
Whatever you do in Fes, do not even think of skipping this attraction!
The Al-Attarine Madrasa is in the very heart of the medina, right next to the famous al-Karaouine University. The Madrasa was founded all the way back in 1323 by Sultan Uthman II Abu Said and served as a scientific school. While our guide only led us to the main courtyard, the entire building is composed of 30 rooms, all more decadently styled than the other. This is a pure jewel in terms of Islamic architecture, and the courtyard alone had my undivided attention for a solid hour. And I’m not exaggerating when I say I could’ve stayed a lot longer.
Also good to know? It only costs 10 dirhams to visit.
The 7 Gates Of The Royal Palace
Before you engulf yourself in the maze and chaos of the medina, make sure to stop by Fes’ opulent Royal Palace.
While the Palace isn’t open to visitors (it still serves as official residence to the King of Morocco whenever he visits Fes), you can still enjoy the architectural masterpieces that are the front gates – all 7 of them. Take some time to marvel at the dozen different textures, colors, materials and patterns that adorn this huge structure.
Just be careful not to take any photos of the guards – unless you want to be chastitised in Arab, of course.
Leather Tanneries
If there is one tip I can give for this attraction, it would be this: do not, under any circumstances, refuse the mint bouquet that’s given to you when entering the leather shop. The smell gets only gets stronger as you make your way through the bazar of bags, wallets and belts, and get closer to the true spectacle of the area – the tanneries.
That’s when you’ll be thankful for the heaven-sent mint. Because the main ingredients of the dyes, outside chemicals and natural pigments, is essentially bird crap and cow pee.
But do not let the overpowering smell get to you and keep you from enjoying this unique and peculiar sight: the Fes tanneries are amongst the oldest ones in the world still in function. It is truly puzzling to watch the workers jump swiftly from one vat to another without a care in the world.
In the industrialized world we live in, it’s quite a blast from the past to see that this specific artistry hasn’t changed a bit in the past 600 years.
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Very neat. Love the colors of the tannery, but yeah the smell has become legendary in the stories. I think I would be interested in the pottery. I have turned it myself and now know enough to see deeper into the artistry of others.
It is a bit worrisome to hear that you did feel unsafe even just a little bit. I guess that is part of just being aware in travel, but I haven’t yet been in a place in my memory where I really felt that unsafe. Though a good tip about the ATMs, will just stock up elsewhere.
Living as I do in the Canary Islands, I’m geographically closer to Morocco than mainland Spain. Have been to Tangiers which I loved. Now it’s clear, from reading your excellent article, that I have to visit Fes too.
I must say I am surprised to keep all these negative things about Fes lately – it is refreshing to hear a positive take on it! I know that dealing with all the men can be a little tiresome and that it’s chaotic etc, but I actually really enjoyed it: especially strolling through the alleyways of the markets. So glad you still had a good time, despite the madness! :)
Well I wouldn’t go as far to say it was all sunshine and roses – definite downsides. But the landmarks far make up for it!